Catalina Quesada Castro (Lina Quesada)

When we started this project several months ago of Alpinismonline, one of the ideas was to take the testimony of people who do mountaineering to those who enjoy it, either through practice or reading.
Last month we began this journey with Christian Vitry, and now we continue with a Seville that is gaining attention in the world of mountains, especially since Everest, won just four months ago: Catalina Quesada Castro, better known as Lina Quesada .
As much as is clear from the note itself, as the exchange of idea to produce it before and after me for Lina has left an impression very comforting. A simple and humble person, they have in the mountain lifestyle, who loves the mountains as his life itself, that is dependent on the other.
The enrichment Lina manifested through the elements that nature provides us is another thing that stands out from this report.
Lina is a strong female presence in the mountains when say they would like to be given women the opportunity to go to the mountain because he likes and not to accompany their partners. Is a very valuable and saves him the note as one of the most important.
Lina Quesada reached Alpinismonline to show the fans of this activity as it is, what you think about the mountain and finally, as substantial food gets to your mind, trying to reach the greatest heights of the earth with the very nature as a faithful companion to cordate.
I hope you fully enjoy this note

How were your beginnings in the mountains, and when you realized that you be doing the activity?
I started with classical scale first and then sports, here in Andalusia have very nice to climb walls like El Chorro in Malaga and Tarifa, then winter came, I went with friends to ski and when I met Sierra Nevada, marked left me, climbed Veleta first time ski boots, I went off the tracks and started to climb without crampons or anything crazy.

Lina, so that people may know beyond the mountains. What is Lina Quesada from day to day?
My day to day is a "normal" person, I go to work every day, walking, and clear as my job requires me to be many hours sitting, because every evening I will train, run, do weights, swimming one day I go to a climbing wall, etc.. I have energy and when I go to a movie night with friends or go out to sample a bit with beer. What makes me different is that every weekend without fail I am going to the mountain, either to scale, to make a descent of canyon, cave, mountain biking or backcountry skiing in winter, I love

What role does the mountain in your life?
Play a key role, because if I stray far from the practice of mountain activities, could never reach the level I need to go to an eight-thousand, so that's why I'm trying to train various disciplines and thus to test me in various media, such as rock, snow, ice, etc.. Also mentally train in the cold, with ice water in a ravine, approximations nocturnal sleep in the open ... everything that helps me mentally to withstand the extreme conditions later in a mountain expedition.

Do you take as a sport or going beyond it?
From the above, I think it is clear beyond ... since it is part of my day to day to train both physically and mentally and not lose contact with the mountain ever since it is the sport that attracts me most in each of its aspects, and from mountain to just run everything Moreover, biking, skiing, climbing.
That affects you and affects you in your personal life, in your personal and social relationships, because in the end, you end up going over the hill that dining out with friends and people you surround yourself with healthy, nonsmoker, who train to be city, so that leaves its mark.

I imagine that in your experiences in the mountains have felt fear at some time. How do you get control, if it really brought under control?
Yes you can control, in cases of distress, you see death around you must remain calm. We must establish an internal dialogue with yourself and assess what the situation objectively as possible, to find a way out of danger.
There are accidents that are anticipated and surprise you, there can not do anything, that happens and you do not realize (eg. An avalanche) but there are other cases that can be avoided (cracks = tying), which We must try not to be in a particular place at a specific time, avoid the summit late, not down at night, do not cross cracks lead rope, ice ax or be strung.
So you have to control the mental part, not to enter a state of fear or panic, not to fall in trouble, but we must also consider each move before the activity to avoid danger.

After achieving a goal, I mean the fall time, knowing how difficult this is, What would your plan, so to speak, to avoid mistakes that could become unpredictable? The enthusiasm for this goal achieved involuntarily Can take these errors?
The accumulated fatigue is an enemy to be avoided in the fall. Sometimes it's best to stand, drink, rest a bit and go slow, do not try to go faster when the ground is dangerous. If we must draw the rope down to a safe and secure, it is better to do, even if we lose a bit. I think not to make mistakes you have to have their heads and remain calm and the ability to think, to reason and to analyze the situation and the dangers. Do not go crazy and set it in the other, each must have its own pace and should take security measures it deems appropriate, without comparing with others, not because others do not, no I must.

How do you do in this stage to make the right decision at the right time about continuing or not a particular climb, especially if you decide to follow up and just have the top there, close at hand?
You can never be certain that your decision is correct. Sometimes I've gone around and then gave me very sad, because I could have gone and may have reached the summit, but when in doubt, I usually take the more cautious option, which is almost always turning around and down.
In my first eight thousand (Broad Peak 2003) I turned around, because I was alone and afraid stand alone, however in the second (Cho Oyu 2005) decided to take, because my teammates did not come up, and I made the decision single climbing from camp 3. That's not right, but if I do, would not have reached the summit, then I was glad to be risky. So sometimes, to achieve the objectives must be risked, if not, do not get.

Ever imagine, especially in your beginning, you had any time for that unattainable goal. What was that mountain?
Of course, me in my beginnings, I never would have imagined that one day would go up Mount Everest. The first time I saw it was from the summit of Island Peak, and I gasped at him and thinking how crazy Montañón what I would have never imagined that one day I would be a dot on his summit. I think for any climber on Everest is important for me has been and I am glad I fulfilled that dream.

What has been your greatest satisfaction to develop this activity?
Everything!, Living with friends / as in the expeditions, the people you meet in those countries, their culture, traditions, religions and customs. The landscapes so amazing that I had the opportunity to see the sunsets, the night of a thousand stars over 7,000 m. where it seems that the sky will fall on you and blind you so much light, full moons reflecting snow, rivers, the colors of the stones, earth, all that and more, you can not imagine what enriches the nature, travel, mountains and people.

And your greatest disappointment?
Disappointments come when you expect something, so as not to disappoint, I try not to expect anything from anything or anyone. So I rejoice when all goes well and if wrong, for nothing to go forward, always with good humor.

Do you realize now mountaineering activities in Spain?
Sure, every weekend I do some activity. Last week I was climbing in Tarifa, the former did canyoning in Granada, the next weekend I'll climb the Mulhacen, the highest mountain in the peninsula, Sierra Nevada, and so every weekend is my passion.

You've gained access to a few years ago our mountain, Aconcagua. What are your memories of this expedition?
Yes, it was in 2002, I loved it. Above all the human qualities of people, we were very well received in Buenos Aires, Mendoza, at base camp. I was lucky enough that it snowed in January, bringing the mountain was more beautiful and the route was more alpine, with snow, We go the normal route, this year no one could climb up the Polish Glacier, which to me I would have loved, but could not be. Would if I could, who knows.
The Aconcagua is a major mountain is high and can be hard. People go too lightly and not acclimatized well and prepare well, so there are many accidents, I think we should give more importance than it is given.

Did you also been in the Ojos del Salado, right?
Yes, that was 2004, I went with a friend, the two of us, we rented a jeep in Copiapo and ventured into the desert, was an unforgettable experience, also the people and landscapes, very nice, I also loved it. Then we went to Patagonia, Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy, Torres del Paine, incredible beauty.

This year, 2008, I think it was quite productive for you. You were again very close to Broad and got nothing more and nothing less than the big brother Everest. Does it mean for you as much at this point in your career?
It meant a lot and I think it was very important in my career before, nobody knew me. But I hope to continue doing important and relevant things, I will not stop yet. Implement projects, now in October, I'm going back to the Himalayas, going 6 girls to try BARUNTSE (7220 m.), so that is a very exciting project and getting all the top, fill me with pride, be 6 Andalusian women in a Himalayan peak.

What can highlight your Everest? How did you get to see the world from up there? I mean about running for you in that time so short and majestic.
Abducts you be up there for a few moments you feel unique, you feel full of happiness, you see that all the effort of many years of training, many months of struggle to get aid, so long dreaming, suddenly has borne fruit and that makes you feel happy.
It is an ephemeral happiness, because you know it is the descent, where more dangers await. Moreover, the idea of the world makes you sad because you see that we are nothing, we are very little, very fragile, it takes only a strong wind, a sudden drop in temperature, for a human being is gone and it's nothing .
It is sad too see how these people live in abject poverty in Tibet, Nepal living better, but they're very healthy, very simple, they need nothing to live on, no one has more than 2 clothing, no one has in his home drawers or closets, living with him since.
The large differences between the 2 worlds (the rich and the poor) are clearly there. I just glad to think that we can contribute to there being some kind of economic income by giving them work with dispatch, and at least help somewhat.

What about the experience in the Broad Peak?
On my return on Broad Peak, I have felt a bit disappointed, this time was very acclimation and physically and mentally very strong and sincerely thought they were going to get. On top of trying to appreciate the situation and made the decision not to continue and the mountain is so, is the deadline and you have to go back, we could not make another attempt, the weather did not let us do anything for 10 days .
The experience with peers has been great and very rewarding, with the mountain as well, since conditions were so bad that lesson has served me and learning, but even then, vuelves a little discouraged when you do not bring the summit.

How have you touched the awesome tragedy of contemporary K2 your expedition? Were they aware of what happened?
Yes, we were in direct contact with them, our friend Alberto Zerain had two permits, Broad Peak and K2, and in fact he was the first climber to reach the summit of K2 this year. When we got out of our attempt to summit Broad Peak, we heard the news and started worrying, we could not imagine the magnitude of the tragedy, we were gradually giving more details and we thought we would never see Albert, when went to the K2 base camp that afternoon, after going down loaded from the field 1 of Broad and we find him, we thought a ghost was alive, with 6 kilos lighter, but alive. He heard all, as it was approaching the base camp and came across people who went to assist in a possible rescue.
I also met some who now are gone, my friend Nick Rice shared permit with a Frenchman, Hugues, with whom we were having lunch a few days, looking at pictures and telling stories of mountain and making future plans.
It was very sad all, see how fellow Marco Confortola were so concerned at the base camp for the life of his friend, how the girl got down Holland after losing her husband up there.
Such a situation is very tragic and very difficult to overcome.
Sometimes I wonder why we love this sport, with times so hard and so bad that brings.

When you're up there, especially at times when they necessarily have to wait until the mountain provides, or as is usually said, the window of good weather. How do you cope with long hours and fighting a depression that, I believe, should make your own?
Eventually I got used to being patient, at first it was worse. Usually I read a lot, took me 4 or 5 pounds, depending on how big they are, I have also a sewing kit and fix clothes I offer everyone, I love sewing and there are always things to fix broken or sew logos on garments.
Also need to socialize, talk with colleagues, meet people from other expeditions, fetch stones, play cards, listen to music and sometimes even do sit-ups or gymnastics in the store, you must have imagination, je , je.

Those associated with the mountain know to be an extreme activity that takes you to mortgage your life in every new venture, which one should be ready-esteem-to suffer losses, beyond his own life, I mean co - climbing. Do you have lived this situation?
Yes, in spring 2007 we lost a companion in the Dhaulagiri. It was tough, but mainly because his wife was also there, saw him fall and saw how he beat his head with a rock. She fell very ill, with frozen hands, nose, chin and was very ill. My role was to try to help her, we had to cure every day, helping her around, eating, dressing, but mostly to cheer, was having the worst time of her life and she was alone. She did not want to descend the mountain, said he wanted to stay there and die with him, was something touching, really dramatic, I scored a lot.

Did you get a chance to meet Inaki? What I remember the guards?
Yes, Iñaki knew precisely in 2003 in the Broad Peak, then returned to coincide with him in 2007 in the Dhaulagiri and once we agree in Kathmandu.
It seemed like a great guy as a person, strong as an athlete and as a mountaineer.
Had a good heart, always willing to help, you could talk with him and was a beautiful person.
I got the news just the day I came down from the summit of Everest and when I got to base camp and they told me, excited me enough, because at the time you have mixed feelings about the mountain, sometimes treats you well (that was my case ) and other treats you bad and the truth is that we feel for your loss, he was a good representative of mountaineering in Spain.

Now what is your next project?
The female expedition to BARUNTSE in October and if all goes well next year the same team are going to Manaslu, 8163 meters

Here in Argentina we are somewhat behind the Spanish more about the development of the activity to a level of Himalayas. We have excellent exponents that could well keep up the great that we see daily in the news, but an issue of support, be it sponsorship, the chances are greatly depleted. The level of support of these sponsors in your country, how it would qualify? Is the rise to the occasion or only a few have come to them?
In Spain there is a high level of financial support and resources in the north, one can say that the Basque Country and Catalonia are in a first level against other communities.
In Andalusia, I have begun to have support in recent years, but my beginnings were difficult, I had to pay the shipping, provided always asking friends and family.
In the north, trademarks and entrepreneurs, are positive to help athletes in other cases employers to take the opportunity to transcribe and also help finance shipments, so you can always take a positive side to them.
Only a few can live aid, others have to go every day to work, heh, heh.
You mentioned that the fact I live in southern Spain, to play something against time to find financial support. Well, the eternal problem between North and South, what is it that your great compatriot Serrat so clearly on one occasion. But do not worry, it's that at every level and throughout the world (imagine as we are here below). But anyway, go to our subject, it is important to give us your opinion, to see if we wake up those who only look to one side, convinced that there are very good exponents in the other and can also get very good returns, but just look at your career ...
I have had to convince many people that did not believe me, I've taken pictures of my CDs with expeditions and knew not in many cases or what was the Himalayas or eight thousand, cost me a lot to have a positive view of our sport, as an incentive for youth to enhance healthy living, outdoor sports and nature, sports team, human relations, fellowship, overcoming .... all these are values that must instil in young people.
Also the situation of women, giving women the option of going to the mountain because they like them, not because they accompany their partners, that's all I have a commitment to society, a struggle that is not lost and is my way to convince politicians and businessmen to help me because I defend and power very positive values.

How do you see the current development of mountaineering in Spain?
I see it, is still higher in the north than in the south, there snow over there is more ice and more mountains, but is well developed and become very relevant activities. There are more and more competitions also climbing, adventure raids, running, mountain climbing and is also the technical level.

Who has been to you the Major or higher-exponents of the history of this activity?
There are historical characters very dear to me, perhaps because their biographies intrigued me, such as Ricardo Cassin and Lionel Terray ... but in Spain for me my "idols" were Iñurrategui brothers were the perfect cordate, brothers and friends, strong and technical. They were a balance that complement, now Alberto is doing things very technical and still on top, I admire him.

What about women?
Among women, a pioneer Wanda Rutkiewicz was Polish, had to make a hole in the sport of men, for the pioneers was even tougher.

Of the many Spanish who today carry on this wonderful activity, "Who impressed you most, or you feel more identified either by climbing style, personality, etc?
As I said Alberto Iñurrategui admire, there are other very strong, and Juan Vallejo, Juan Carlos Tamayo, Alberto Zerain, etc..

Now to what is feminine. What do you think of the race, although they deny it, are responsible for between Edurne and Gerlinde?
I know them both personally and I agreed with them on any issue and I think are very good climbers and very strong. I do not see competition between them, but it is true that competition is good, it gives excitement to what is done and more interest in emerging media. So sponsors are more publicity too, so it's good to have women at those levels, I see positive.

Have you personally known any important figure of climbing you've admired in advance and what impression you have caused?
This year I was in Cervinia and had the opportunity to meet Compagnoni, belonged to the first Italian expedition to K2, is very old, but still keeps the brain young. I was surprised at his hands, he saw that it was the hands of a climber, his agility in spite of age, was enriching to talk to him.

And finally, a question maybe something odd, but is a topic that fascinates me personally. I read about the experts and good, I know another expert voice. In this great myth about Mallory installed or Hillary, I ask one of the item is understood to have achieved. Might Mallory and Irvine have reached given the last place she saw from the base camp?
I read the book "The bones of Mallory and history gave me a lot. I think it was strong enough to have reached the summit. Furthermore, the photo of the woman, not carried in the fall, when his remains were found was not, so he could have left it at the summit as promised. We'll never know, are the secrets that only the mountain knows, but I think they were able to have fully achieved.

Lina thank you very much for this wonderful testimony.
Alpinismonline, September 2008.